"Worth a voyage across the Atlantic" - Hiking Maryland Heights, Part 1: Overlook Trail

Over 1400 feet high, Maryland Heights offers stunning views of the town of Harpers Ferry, WV, and the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers. You might learn a little bit of Civil War history along the way.

Maryland Heights is one of the hikes I've been wanting to do from the first time I visited Harpers Ferry. I finally got some spare time to hike it on a chilly, windy, but sunny November afternoon. I parked at the visitor center and took the bus down to the main town with my pack and hiking stick.

Full disclosure: I only hiked the Overlook trail and didn't get to the Stone Fort trail, since I got started a little later than I wanted.

Notes

Distances:
from the Maryland Heights Trail Guide:
railroad bridge to Overlook Cliffs (round trip): about 4.1 miles (3 hours)
railroad bridge to Stone Fort (round trip): about 6 miles (4 hours)

Blazes:
Combined Trail: Green Blaze
Stone Fort Trail: Blue Blaze (note: the blazes were light blue; in harsh/bright sunlight, the blue blazes look almost white)
Overlook Cliffs Trail: Red Blaze

If you can't tell by the photos below, the trail is somewhat steep, in some places more than others. Take your time and bring plenty of water (there are no fountains or water access on the trail at all). Also, make sure you take care of restroom business in town before you cross over the river.

I *strongly* recommend a hiking stick or trekking poles to help you up the side of the mountain. There's also plenty of loose gravel, rocks, and tree roots on the trail, so mind your steps.

Parking: There are a very small number of spots near the trailhead, so unless you get there early, you probably won't get a spot. I recommend parking at the visitor center, taking the bus into town, and walking the rest of the way.

On a warm day, the overlook would be a nice place for a picnic, so if you're willing and able to haul some food up the mountain, go for it, but please make sure you pack out your trash, as there are no trashcans anywhere on the trails.

You can bring dogs along, but please make sure you clean up after them as well. Leave no trace except footprints.

Trail Map

Trailhead

To reach the trailhead, you have to cross the railroad bridge across the Potomac (part of the Appalachian Trail) and then head up the C & O Canal Towpath. The footbridge over the C & O canal leads (once you cross the road beyond) to the trailhead.

The footbridge to the trailhead


Maryland Heights trailhead. It goes up!


The trail winds around the back side of the mountain, then begins a steady climb up toward the turn to the overlook.

Naval Battery

On the way up the combined trail to the overlook trail, you'll encounter some trail markers and points of interest. The first one is the Naval Battery, seen below:


As you can see on the Maryland Heights Trail Guide, the trail splits around the Naval Battery, but make sure you take the side trail to see it. The Naval Battery was the first Union fortification on Maryland Heights.

The trail not taken

Once past the Naval battery, not far up the combined trail, the Stone Fort trail splits off. The Stone fort trail goes up to the summit of Maryland Heights, and is a little more than 3-mile circuit hike, which will bring you back around near the Overlook trail.

The Stone Fort trail branches off.


As I mentioned before, I didn't hike the Stone Fort trail, but I understand it's fairly strenuous but rewarding. Hopefully soon, I'll head back and hike this one.

The Overlook

"Worth a voyage across the Atlantic" - Thomas Jefferson
Note: Jefferson was actually referring to the view from Jefferson Rock, but I believe he would have said the same about the view from the Maryland Heights Overlook.

The trail to the Overlook actually descends from the Combined Trail to the Overlook cliffs, involving several switchbacks. There were plenty of rocks and tree roots on this section of trail, so again, watch your step as you descend down to the Overlook.

Finally, the payoff for climbing up the hill/mountain.


Harpers Ferry, WV

The Potomac River. You can see the Maryland Heights trailhead from here.

The Shenandoah River. The bridge over the Shenandoah is part of the Appalachian Trail coming out of Virginia. The AT then turns up the hill and goes past the church before crossing the Potomac into Maryland. As I've mentioned in a previous post, Harpers Ferry is considered the mid-point on the AT, and the AT Headquarters is located in the town.

Other pictures from my hike

Coming down the mountain

Final Thoughts

As it was a windy and chilly day, I bundled up with a long sleeve base layer under a tshirt, and a warm zip up hoodie. I also wore a scarf and hat which I occasionally removed. I brought along an extra fleece pullover and windbreaker jacket as well, but I didn't really need them. I worked up a pretty good sweat hiking up the hill, and in colder weather, I might have been concerned by this. Thankfully, a little time spent relaxing in the sun on the overlook dried me out a bit. This trail is definitely one of the more strenuous trails I've done so far, so if you attempt it, know your limits and take your time. Most of all, enjoy.
Happy Hiking!

Hiking With Hammer- First post- Harpers Ferry

So I'm starting a new blog which will focus on my hiking adventures and plans. Not necessarily just hiking, but what I like to call adventures.

I've lived in Maryland for over 5 years and I love the myriad of trails and hikes available to enjoy in this (and nearby) states. For the first few entries I'll probably show some of my past hikes, but hopefully I'll add to the list over the coming years.

Author's note: Credit where credit is due: most pictures featured in this blog are courtesy of my lovely wife, Heather.

First up: Harpers Ferry

From Harper's Ferry 7-27-13

Harpers Ferry is situated at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers where Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland meet. Harpers Ferry is probably most famous for John Brown's Raid in 1859.

Getting to Harpers Ferry National Historic Park is quite easy. First, I recommend you drive to the Visitor Center, and not attempt to drive directly into town. The Visitor Center is situated a short distance away from the main park and town, but there is a regular shuttle bus service that will drop you off in the lower town area. There's lots to see and do in the lower town, including plenty of historical markers, shops, and restaurants. If you go on a weekend, you may get lucky and see some historical re-enactors around the railroad trestle. (see the linked map)

John Brown's Fort

The Potomac River

The Shenandoah River. There's a sandy beach here, but be careful on the wet rocks, they're slippery



Union Army re-enactors


"Sawbones" showing off the tools of his trade


The confluence of two rivers, the Potomac (on the left) and the Shenandoah.
For hikers, Harpers Ferry has a lot to offer. First, it's effectively the 'halfway point' of the Appalachian Trail. The AT cuts through part of the town, and passes by Jefferson Rock, St. Peter's Catholic Church and down the Stone steps, which can be steep and treacherous. Be careful! There's a footbridge along the side of the rail bridge that connects West Virginia to Maryland. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy Headquarters is in Harpers Ferry, and is located on Washington Street in the main part of town, not far off the AT itself.

Jefferson Rock

View of the rivers from Jefferson Rock.

Once you get to the lower town, you'll probably notice the huge bluffs on opposite sides of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers. This is where the Maryland Heights and Loudon Heights trails are, respectively. I have not yet attempted either trail, but I do know that the Maryland Heights trail offers a stunning view of the town below. To get to the Maryland Heights trail head, you have to cross over to the Maryland side and follow Harpers Ferry road upriver until you find the trail head, which will be clearly marked. The Maryland Heights trail can be steep and strenuous, so give yourself plenty of time and make sure you bring water and snacks.

Maryland Heights bluff with the railroad and footbridge below

Maryland Heights from below. You can see the hikers on the bluff.

If you're looking for easier trails, there are several along the Shenandoah River, on Virginus Island. Virginius Island was once the location of many mills, factories, warehouses, and homes in the nineteenth century. Today you can walk among the ruins of these buildings.
bridge to Virginius Island

Another trail on the Maryland side of the Potomac (one which I will probably cover later) follows the route of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, which connected Georgetown in DC with Western Maryland. More on the C&O later.

Thanks for reading! Please feel free to comment and/or ask questions!